Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
